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Blog 5 – The Hope of Israel

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The Hope of Israel

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History

During the Inquisition at the end of the 15th century the once bustling and thriving Jewish community of Spain was hiding or was in exile. Many changed the spelling of their name and crossed the border into the then tolerant Portugal. However, when one hundred years later the inquisitors established their tribunal here, many Spanish-Portuguese Jews fled to the ‘free’, Protestant Holland. Here they helped to build Amsterdam as a commercial and shipping center of Europe. The majestic Portuguese Synagogue at the Jonas Daniel Meyer square in Amsterdam, the ‘Esnoga’, showed the prosperity of the Jewish community at that time.

In the 17th century, with the arrival of the West Indian Company and the colonization of territories in the West, several Jewish families from Spanish-Portuguese origin followed the settlers to the island of Curacao. Because of its links with Brazil and the geographically favorable location for trading between East and West, our island was perhaps the promised land?

When the Jewish population on Curacao was steadily increasing in the second half of the 17th century, the demand for a larger Synagogue was also increasing. In 1732, the start of the construction of the current Synagogue was made. Based on the ‘Esnoga’ the new Synagogue is named: The Hope of Israel, or Mikvé Israel.

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Hanchi di Snoa

Walking through the Pietermaai Mall we walk into the ‘Wolkstraat’. At the end of the street we see the synagogue already, bathing in sunlight. In its soft yellow and cream color façade with three consecutive bell-shaped gables, she is a striking precense among the shops, restaurants and old warehouses. The ‘Wolkstraat’ ends at the intersection with the ‘Columbusstraat’ and the Hanchi di Snoa starts here, meaning ‘alley of the Synagogue’ in Papiamentu.

By the guard at the door, we are pointed in the direction of the office. You can usually pay the entrance fee to visit the Synagogue here, but we are awaited by Mr. Maduro, an expert regarding the beautiful Mikvé Israel-Emanuel Synagogue. When we then enter the synagogue with him, we enter the beautiful prayer room. The mahogany, the pure white walls and shutter windows on top of the semi-circular, fan-like, blye purple stained glass. However, the most striking is the floor. The entire floor of the synagogue is in fact covered with sand.

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Sand

“The meaning of this sand has three aspects”, Mr. Maduro tells us. The sand symbolizes the forty-year journey of the Israelites on their way through the Sinai Desert to the ‘promised land’. It is also a reminder of the of the Inquisition. Because the Jewish faith was not allowed, many people created a secret prayer place in their house. The floors were covered with sand to muffle the sound. Finally, it also refers to the words God spoke to Abraham. “Our synagogue and the synagogue in Jamaica are the only synagogues where this tradition is maintained”, he adds. “In all other synagogues, the floor is covered by carpet.”

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Rabin

The Mikve Israel-Emanuel Synagogue is the oldest still in use temple of the Western Hemisphere. Every Friday and Saturday services are held and people come together at Jewish holidays, such as Yom Kippur, the Day of Atonement. When I ask him about death and remembrance, he tells me that the parting only takes place at the cemetery. Only in some particular cases, a memorial service is held in the synagogue itself.

“When the prime minister of Israel had been shot, for example, we have gathered here. When I entered I saw our Chazan (Cantor of the Jewish prayer service), the Imam (the predecessor prayer of the Islam) of the Curacao Mosque and the Bishop of the Catholic Church sit side by side in the synagogue. A unique moment for Curacao… actually for the whole world…”. He becomes silent in a thought of reflection. “This is how it should always be….” His story touches me and my eyes become wet. “Yes, it should always be like that” I think in silence.

When I come home later and read the news, I am moved again. It is more than 20 years ago that the Prime Minister Yizhak Rabin was shot dead after a massive peace demonstration in Tel Aviv.

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Attics

Still fighting my tears, I look up at one of the beautiful brass chandeliers. “During a service all the 144 candles are lit” says Mr. Maduro. “Does it have a special meaning?” I ask him. He laughs: “No, just 26 per chandelier and then the candles on the walls. In total, there happen to be 144, I have placed a new order recently.”

Then I notice the small loft at the right corner. I think I see the beginning of a staircase. I look at the ceiling: “Is there still a space upstairs?” I ask surprised. Mr. Maduro looks at me and laughs amused. “Yes, indeed”, he says at a tone that seems to praise my attention. Every dome has a small attic.

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Acquaintance

When we say goodbye, I realize that I did not just ‘meet’ a building, I also got to meet her soul through Mr. Maduro. As a Catholic girl, it was a spiritual experience to get to know our synagogue: a very special acquaintance.

 

With thanks to Manon Hoefman

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